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Brian McGoldrick
 
September 30, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

October 2021 Club Wines

Decadence All Around!

Gold Wines:

Visintini 2019 Friulano- Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Friuli Colli Orientali-IT

Do you like Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, or Muscadet?  Do you wish the wines were more bone-dry and had some more weight flavor and body-wise to them?  Look no further than Friulano from Fiuli Colli Orientali.  This DOC is located in Friuli-Venezia Giula, a large northeastern Italian growing region that borders the Veneto region, Slovenia, and Austria.  This region generally displays a mild Mediterranean climate with a cool influence from the Alps to the north.  This screams for both structured white wines and lighter styles of red wine.  The styles displayed here are varied, from bone-dry whites to plush Bordeaux-based wines (see the Bortoluzzi Cabernet Franc) to the rich dessert wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG (Which gets a shoutout in the Sopranos!).  So, what can you expect from the Vinsintini?  The wine displays a light yellow/ pale straw color.  The nose is complex and savory, with almond, apple skin, and white flowers.  The palate displays zippy acidity, subtle stone and citrus fruits with herbaceous and almond accents.  While you might think to pair this with lean white meat or delicate fish, try pairing this wine’s high acid with cured meats and salty pork!

Nine Hats 2018 Pinot Gris- Columbia Valley AVA, Washington- US

Even when thinking explicitly of popular white varieties in Washington, Pinot Gris probably does not come immediately to mind.  To be fair, the typical portrayal of Washington doesn’t display the typical climate associated with Pinot Gris.  However, the rainy, green pastures on the West of the Cascades are a far cry from the generally sunny and dry valleys on the East (Where virtually all of the wine production for the state occurs).  In fact, comparisons could be drawn between Columbia Valley and what is likely the premier non-Italian Pinot Gris-growing region, Alsace.  Though the Nine Hats displays some fundamental differences from Alsatian Pinot Gris, it does display the potential for Pinot Gris going forward in Columbia Valley.  This wine pours a light straw to light yellow with some light white hues.  The nose offers an intense combination of flowers, wet stone, and tart orchard fruits.  The palate is less intense, with soft honey crisp apple and green pear cut with some honey.  If there’s a “light” wine on the list, it’s this one, and would go best with some charcuterie or sashimi.

Quarisa 2016 Mrs. Q Shiraz- McLaren Vale-AUS

Recently, we’ve been bringing in lighter renditions of Australian reds in order to display the versatility of various regions.  It’s time to get back to the rich stuff, if only briefly.  This is a partially-barrel fermented rendition that experiences roughly 18 months in American oak following fermentation. The Mrs. Q Shiraz is a faithful version of the style, pouring a rich purple color with blue and black hues.  The nose is intensely rich, with macerated red and blue fruits, black pepper, and sweet baking spice.  The palate is heavy with much of the same fruit characteristics being enveloped by rich sweet tannins and hints of chocolate and coffee. 

Retro 2020 Primitivo di Manduria- Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Puglia- IT

Although they are genetically identical, Primitivo is generally associated with lighter, more structured wines while Zinfandel is known for the being the posterchild for hedonistically rich wines.  In this case, we have an instance of mistaken identity, as the Retro is a decidedly new world rendition of Primitivo.  This wine pours a medium ruby color with purple hues, offering aromas of raspberry, bramble, vanilla, and pipe tobacco.  The palate is rich, with soft tannins enveloping soft, juicy red fruits and sweet baking spice. 

Platinum Wines:

Domaine Chavet 2020 Pouilly Fume- Pouilly-Fume AOC, Loire- FR

We all know about Sancerre, which is arguably the most famous region in the Upper Loire and the Loire Valley itself.  For the most part, Sancerre is going to be the primary representative for the Loire Valley in the US market.   However, it isn’t the only phenomenal Sauvignon Blanc-based wine from Loire you should be paying attention to: cue Pouilly-Fume.  As Sancerre’s proverbial little sibling, Pouilly-Fume is generally produced in a rounder, softer style.  This provides a great backdrop for certain winemaking techniques that result in a richer, more new world product; such as malolactic fermentation.  Domaine Chavet’s Pouilly-Fume is a great example of how ‘malo’ can benefit Sauvignon Blanc.  This wine pours a pale yellow color, offering aromas of citrus, light stone fruit, and ripe vegetal notes.    The palate is light-plus bodied, with a slightly creamy texture and (comparatively) lower acidity enveloping stone and citrus fruits. 

Owen Roe 2019 ‘Sinister Hand’-Columbia Valley AVA,Washington-US

Though this might be the lightest red on the platinum club, it’s only by comparison.  This is quaffable, but rich take on the classic GSM formula from Southern Rhone.  In this case, a majority of Syrah is blended with Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and multiple white Rhone varieties.  A rich ruby color belies bright aromas of raspberry, vanilla, and black pepper.  The palate is medium-bodied, with medium tannins and medium acidity accenting notes of bright cherry and plum cut with black pepper, grilled meat, and sweet baking spice.  Inquire with your server about the story behind the label!

Podere Grattomacco 2019 Bolgheri Rosso- Bolgheri DOC, Tuscany- IT

A bit of an oddity and a first for SWB, we have a DOC ‘Super Tuscan’!  What is likely one of the most ambiguous terms in wine originated in the 1970’s when high-quality, typically Bordeaux variety-based, wines were not eligible for classification under the Chianti DOC.  This ended up resulting in the creation of the Bolgheri DOC in 1983 and the famed Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) category in 1992.  Both of these appellations/categories were created to allow for these ‘Super Tuscans’ to have a denomination greater than the base vino.  Grattomacco’s rendition is very style-appropriate, being composed of a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Sangiovese.  This wine pours a medium ruby color with garnet hues.  The nose offers fresh herbs, graphite, and tart red fruit.  The palate offers a medium + body, medium dusty tannins, and medium acidity.  The flavor profiles offers ripe red fruits, balsamic reduction, and savory baking spice.

Chronology 2019 Red Wine- General California- US

‘Kitchen Sink’ blends have been an unstoppable New World phenomenon ever since Dave Phinney unveiled the Prisoner in the early 2000’s under the Orin Swift line.  Due to over-saturation, many of these blends are susceptible to manipulation and a complete lack of balance.  The Chronology, conceptualized by famed Burgundy producer and portfolio savant  Jean Charles Boisset, is an excellent example of the potential these types of wines display.  This is a true ‘blend’, with Petite Sirah occupying the majority, followed by Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Malbec, Carignan, Mourvedre, Mission…and Petit Verdot.  Despite the relatively little oak this wine sees, the color is representative of Petite Sirah, with a near impenetrable dark ruby with purple hues.  The nose offers reduced figs, mocha, cherry-berry flavors and blackberry bramble.  The palate is rich, but balanced with soft tannins and surprisingly quaffable acidity.  The fruit is the star of the show here, shining brightly through with cedar box and dark chocolate. 

 

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