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Brian McGoldrick
 
May 4, 2022 | Brian McGoldrick

Brian's Schist List: May 2022 Club

Gold Wines:

Bodegas San Martin ‘Flor de Unx’ Rose-Navarra DO-SP

Tucked in the eastern Navarran subzone of Baja Montana, the small town of San Martin de Unx houses Bodegas San Martin. Like many producers in Navarra, they are major proprietors of Garnacha rosado, and do the tradition proud with their rendition. The ‘Flor de Unx’ (Flower of Unx) is a beautifully pink Grenache rose that stands up to the best of them. The nose offers rich, tart red berries, orange zest, and floral notes. The palate is richer than you might expect of a rose (with even a hint of tannin) and correlates with a rich, red fruit-based profile that is sure to be not only an effective porch pounder but also an excellent food rose. Try this with oily fish-based dishes or roasted poultry. 

Chemistry Chardonnay- Willamette Valley AVA- OR

A collaborative effort between the Chehalem and Stoller estates, the Chemistry line is designed to be in the traditional styles of Oregon ‘Burgundy.’ The Chardonnay is comparably light to more modern styles, with aromas of lemon zest, earl grey tea, and tart orchard fruit. The palate displays mouthwatering acidity with hints of baking spice, sweet citrus, and crunchy apple. Per their admission, this is an olive branch to the ‘ABC’ (Anything But Chardonnay) drinkers but would well regardless with a simple fish or poultry dish with a lemon-based vinaigrette.

Domaine de Terres Dorees Beaujolais ‘Le Ronsay’- Beaujolais AOC- FR

There is not a more unfairly slandered wine region than Beaujolais. To be fair, this is somewhat the region’s fault, as their most profitable product, Beaujolais Nouveau, is not often considered a wine of high quality and generally only drank around Thanksgiving. Furthermore, the true gems of Beaujolais, its 10 crus, are hard to find if you don’t know where to look. I am so incredibly excited to have a general-appellated Beaujolais from a historically ‘bad’ region that highlights what makes traditionally made Beaujolais so great. A cuvee made from younger vines (15-20 years), this wine sees maceration, fermentation, and aging in concrete tanks. The nose offers aromas of strawberry fruit leather, cherry, and some gamey-ness. The palate embodies the porch-pounding style to the extreme, with higher acid and soft tannins enveloping bright red fruit flavors accented with floral notes. This is a summer red through and through and would go beautifully with BBQ chicken.

Warwick Estates ‘First Lady’ Cabernet Sauvignon- General South Africa WO- SA

We loved Warwick so much we had to give them another month on our club. Much like the ‘Three Ladies’ last month, the ‘First Lady’ pays homage to the vital role women have played in developing the winery into one of the more internationally recognized SA estates. The First Lady refers to former winemaker Norma Ratcliffe, who is recognized as the ‘First Lady’ of South African wine given her many contributions to the industry at large in addition to progress for women in the South African wine industry. The wine itself represents the traditional style of Cabernet from the Cape. The nose is a blend of savory smoky notes mixed with dried red and blue fruits. The palate displays moderate tannin and acidity which accentuates an overall juicy character. The notes of tart currant and earth make this a killer wine with venison or lamb.

Platinum Club Wines:

Chateau Croix D’Allons Bandol Rose-Bandol AOC-FR

When you see Provence on a bottle, you might be expecting a light, uncomplicated porch-pounder. We’d say you haven’t had the right one, but its hard to fault anyone for feeling this given the representations of Provence you find in mass retail. However, the ‘promised land of pink’ has many a hidden gem lying within. This month we will be exploring its most ‘serious’ appellation, Bandol. Tucked in the very South of the larger region of Provence, Bandol is a relatively low production region that focuses on red and rose wines based on Mourvèdre (delicious white wines of Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Ugni Blanc are also made to less fanfare). In addition to being one of the very few regions that focuses on Mourvèdre, Bandol also has the distinction of producing some of the only roses in the world that can stand up to age; something that can be attributed to the robust nature of Mourvèdre itself. Chateau Croix D’Allons sticks to making one wine per color, per vintage with an emphasis on traditional, terroir-driven examples. Their rose is a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault, and offers aromas of apricot, juicy citrus, and red berries. The palate is rich but has quintessential rose acidity along with a hint of tannin. The structure envelops strawberry jam and blood orange notes, making this a rose to pair with comparatively heartier fare.

Ventisei Rosso- Toscana IGT-IT

‘Super Tuscan’ usually evokes thoughts of a massive wine with tannins that can only be approached after years of aging. Occasionally, however, you find a wine that bucks that trend in favor of being an everyday drinker and even a porch pounder. Ventisei Vino is a new producer making wines under the Toscana IGT and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG that focuses on approachable wines made via biodynamic practices. The Rosso is primarily based on Sangiovese Grosso, with splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is made via partial carbonic maceration followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The result is a medium ruby-hued wine with aromas of tart cherry, strawberry, and dried oregano. The palate displays soft tannins with zippy acidity enveloping tart red and blue fruits accented by a subtle earthiness. This will turn your perception of Super-Tuscans on its head and should be enjoyed with BBQ and roasted game.

Domaine les Roches Bleues ‘Les Trois Loups’ Brouilly- Brouilly AOC-FR

Remember how we mentioned those 10 Beaujolais ‘Crus’ earlier? Time to talk about one of them. Brouilly is located near the Southern end of a strip of land in the heart of Northern Beaujolais that makes up all the various crus. Much like the crus of Burgundy, each is known for a slightly different take on the same variety; with Gamay being the focus in this case. Like many of Beaujolais’ crus, much of Brouilly’s most respected vineyards lie on granite-based soils, which are often cited as the driving force behind the difference in quality between Gamay from Southern and Northern Beaujolais. Additionally, Roches Bleues, in reference to their name (Blue Rocks) also heavily relies on granitic soils and blue schist for their desired character. Les Trois Loups, which refers to the three wolves on the label, is a young-ish vine cuvee designed for both early drinkability and age worthiness. Going through both carbonic maceration, stainless steel, AND oak, the nose offers licorice, plum, earth, and citrus zest. The palate is medium bodied with exceptionally soft tannins and a juicy acidic quality, with rich red fruits dominating the palate interspersed among hints of mushroom and tea.  As far as Beaujolais goes, this is hearty, and could easily stand up to a fatty burger with portobello mushrooms.

Chateau Moulin Canon-Fronsac- Canon-Fronsac AOC- FR

Last month, we explored Entre-deux-Mers, so let’s explore one of the banks! Canon-Fronsac is a small appellation located within the larger Fronsac on the right bank. As you might know, the right bank is focused primarily on Merlot, which makes up 100% of this wine. Though not a physical ‘chateau’ per se, Moulin bottles wines from both Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac and focuses on easy-drinking renditions that don’t need the typical pre-requisite time to settle. This wine sees a year in used barriques to avoid too much of the ‘new oak’ influence. The nose offers plum and blackberry with hints of cold brew and mocha. The palate is full bodied with woody tannins and restrained acidity, which accent the rich blue and black fruit, subtle baking spice, and chocolate notes. It is our wine director’s (nerd’s) humble opinion that Merlot is a superior wine to Cabernet Sauvignon for filet mignon and we guarantee that if you try this pairing you will agree!

 

*Shoutout to our very own Cheryl for the TRANSCENDENT name suggestion.

Time Posted: May 4, 2022 at 11:17 AM Permalink to Brian's Schist List: May 2022 Club Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
March 30, 2022 | Brian McGoldrick

April Club 2022

‘Natty’ Wines Extravaganza (April Fools)

Gold Club Wines:

Prisma Sauvignon Blanc- Valle de Casablanca-CH

Once upon a time, there was a solid chance that if you picked up a bottle of ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ from Chile, you were likely drinking a field blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Vert which, despite the name, is a completely different variety. These wines were often intensely ‘green’ and painted an unglamorous picture of Chilean white wine. Fast-forward to today, and now Sauvignon Blanc bottlings are truly varietal and offer incredibly zesty and chuggable wines. The Prisma offers aromas of kaffir lime, lemon, fresh cut herbs and a wet rock. The palate is incredibly refreshing with loads of citrus and mineral notes that make an incredible pairing with simple fish dishes with a squeeze of lemon.

Karina Victoria ‘Ka’ Albarino- Rias Baixas DO- SP

While Albarino can be made in a zippy, austere style, many underestimate the potential for the grape to made into a richer, riper style that will make many a Chardonnay and white Rhone blend drinker happy. The ‘Ka’ offers aromas of banana, pear, and hints of spice. The palate is slightly more zippy with hints of citrus, but still offers juicy apple and quince notes. This is a great alternative to other richer white wines to pair with richer seafood or poultry dishes.

Cantine Colosi Nero D’Avola- Terre Siciliene IGT- IT

Though we have visited the ‘cool kid’ region of Mt. Etna and its unique varieties in recent club selections, Nero D’Avola still reigns supreme in terms of acreage in Sicily. Sicily accounts for nearly 98% of all Nero D’Avola in the world, and can be made in a wide range of styles including soft fruity blends with Frappato, or spicy dry reds with rich dark fruit and pepper-driven profiles. The Colosi is an example of the latter but showcases Nero’s ability to be an incredible red for the warmer months. The wine opens up with aromas of dried meat, raspberry, and chocolate-covered cherry. The palate is peppery, with moderate tannins and acidity enveloping dark cherry and sweet raspberry. Its an approachable red that works as well with burgers as it does Bolognese.

Domaine Chante Cigale ‘Cicada’ Rouge- Vin de France- FR

While Chante Cigale might be best known for their powerful Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Ask about the white we have in stock 😉), they understand the importance of having an awesome entry-level label. The Cicada is sourced from a variety of appellations and terroirs, but is made in a Cotes-du-Rhone-style. The nose offers blue and black fruit, sweet floral notes, and hints of chocolate. The palate is dense with moderate tannin, low acid, and a plethora of crème de cassis and blackberry. This straightforward red would go well with a rich red meat-based meal.

Platinum Wines:

Michel Armand Sancerre- Sancerre AOC-FR

After a few disastrous vintages, Sancerre has bounced back into prime form. This region is generally considered to be the pinnacle for dry, varietal (non-blended) Sauvignon Blanc and has served as the inspiration for countless winemakers in virtually every winemaking region. Though Michel Armand is based in Pay Nantais, their Sancerre is spot on. Aromas of ripe snow pea, finger lime, and tart stone fruit give way to a sleek palate with electric acidity enveloping restrained citrus and stone fruit with hints of river rock. This wine is extremely versatile food-wise, but might go best with simple sushi dishes. 

Wine Art Estate ‘Plano’ Assyrtiko- PGI Drama- GR

Back to Greek wine we go, with what is likely Greece’s most famous variety: Assyrtiko. Multiple wine scholars point to Assyrtiko as Greece’s first variety to gain an international foothold thanks in part to its unmistakable varietal character. Though it’s most famously from the island of Santorini, the ‘Plano’ is sourced from the Drama PGI, which encompasses the Northeastern corner of Macedonia. Despite the ‘nontraditional’ origin, this is ALL Assyrtiko. The nose offers a pleasant mix of white flowers, spice, and ocean spray. The palate displays the characteristic acidity of Assyrtiko complemented by a creamy texture enveloping green pear, quince, and saline notes. This wines screams uncompromisingly for oysters.

Chateau la Rame Bordeaux Rouge- Bordeaux AOC- FR

Bordeaux. It’s a word that permeates the minds of novice and experienced wine fans alike. When we think of this region, we likely think of the fantasy wines from Pauillac or Pomerol that would likely involve emptying one or more bank accounts to acquire. However, like many of the ‘luxury’ regions of the world, there are a plethora of affordable wines from Bordeaux that showcase why it’s so highly regarded. This blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced primarily from the Entre-Deux-Mers, which could be viewed as the ‘value’ area of Bordeaux. This wine spent most of its aging period in stainless steel before being transferred to 225-liter neutral barriques. The result is a wine that showcases the approachable fruit characteristics and lovely terroir-driven notes without covering it with harsh oak tannin and flavor. The nose offers deeply perfumed notes of black currant, crunch blue fruit and hints of black pepper. The palate displays moderate acid and tannin, with crème de cassis, some spicy oak, coffee, and hints of bakers chocolate. This might not be QUITE as rich a ribeye wine as you are used to, but we guarantee you will be happy with the pairing. 

Warwick Wine Estate’s ‘Three Ladies’- Stellenbosch WO- SA

It’s not often we get a wine that has such an impressive mythos that (almost) overshadows the wine itself. The Three Ladies is the very first ‘Cape Blend’ which is a unique style of red from South Africa that requires at least 33% Pinotage blended among other red varieties. Given the tumultuous history of Pinotage, this was an innovative (and brave) move. Additionally, this wine holds the honor of being among the select James Bond-approved drinks given its presence in the Bond novel Carte Blanche. Beyond being an icon of the country, this wine is an excellent representation of the modern style of South African winemaking. After 27 months in 10% new French oak, the nose offers baked plum, tart fruit, and deep smoky herbs. The palate is RICH with crème de cassis, valnilla, blueberry, mull spice enveloped by high, but resolved, tannins.  Though steak is the first thought, I could imagine this being a rich pairing to something savory or sweet that’s chocolate-based.

Time Posted: Mar 30, 2022 at 8:57 PM Permalink to April Club 2022 Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
February 25, 2022 | Brian McGoldrick

March Wine Club 2022

Beware the Wines of March

Gold Club Wines:

J.Baumer Riesling- Rheingau-GER

Finding quality Riesling from Germany that won’t break the bank is becoming more and more difficult. Like any other region, however, the key lies in looking beyond the most well-known areas. While you might not be able to find that super-value in the Mosel, going to a larger appellation like the Rheingau can yield affordable and delicious examples. The J. Baumer is one such example, offering varietal notes of orchard fruit, honey, and petrol. The palate is zesty, with high acid and a slight sweetness intermingling with peach, citrus, and honeycrisp apple. While spicy Asian cuisine is the traditional pairing, this would also pair deliciously with Al Pastor tacos or Butter Chicken.

Castello ColleMassari ‘Melacce’ Montecucco Vermentino-Montecucco DOC-IT

Montecucco is a relatively new DOC located in South-Central Tuscany that is predicted to be an important factor in Tuscan wine production in the coming years. Known primarily for affordable, but delicious renditions of Sangiovese, it is also known as one of the higher-quality areas for Vermentino production. Wines made from Vermentino have sometimes had a reputation for being overly-austere and somewhat dull, but ColleMassari’s ‘Melacce’ completely bucks that rend. A delicate-looking wine, it offers aromas of finger lime, tart tropical fruit, and pleasantly green notes. The palate is light-bodied, with zippy acidity enveloping tart stone and citrus cut with salinity. It might not *quite* be pool weather yet, but I’m sure some of you will persevere. Bring this bottle with you.

Oak Farm Vineyard Zinfandel- Lodi AVA- CA

Many, if not all of you, are familiar with Lodi Zinfandel. It is one of the most well-respected Zin-producing regions in California and has no shortage of large producers that have filled grocery store shelves with affordable, quality examples. So instead of lecturing about the region, we’re just going to appreciate how good this wine is. Unlike many Zin’s at this price range, oak is not a huge factor on the palate and nose, which allows for all of the grape’s fruit glory to shine through. Aromas of blueberry, black pepper, and bramble jump from the glass. The palate is rich and velvety with an impressive purity of fruit cut with hints of sweet spice. This isn’t a complex wine, but it doesn’t need to be; because it’s delicious.

Hayes Valley Cabernet Sauvignon- Central Coast AVA- CA

There is an old adage that isn’t universally true for any grape, but can generally describe shopping for certain varieties: “There’s good x, there’s cheap x, but there’s no cheap, good x”. While this has applied to wines such as Sangiovese and Pinot Noir, it’s beginning to reach over into the world of Cabernet. As such, we’re glad to have found an affordable bottle of Cab’ that any of us here at Steve’s would be happy to pair with a weekday meal. The Hayes Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from up and down the Central Coast and offers surprising balance for a Cab’ at this price point. The nose offers aromas of cassis, plum, vanilla, and earth, followed by varietal flavors of blue and black fruits with moderate tannin and acidity. This is an easy-drinker that would go well with any weekday red meat-based meal.

Platinum Wines:

Marcarini Roero Arneis- Arneis DOCG-IT

Some of the world’s most beloved wines are the result of dedicated winemakers saving obscure varieties from extinction. You probably know these stories concerning grapes like Zinfandel and Pinotage, but you might not be aware of one of Northern Italy’s comeback wines: Arneis. Arneis is a white variety grown and vinified in the Roero region of Piedmont and comprises what many consider the highest quality white wines from Piedmont. What was once a grape on the brink of extinction, Arneis was saved by winemakers such as Alfredo Currado (Vietti) and others who saw the potential of the grape. Marcarini’s example is picture perfect, with aromas of ripe orchard and stone fruits cut with aromatic honey and spice. The palate is light-bodied with restrained acidity, showcasing similar fruit, salinity, and nut flavors. Pair this with pasta carbonara or your next roast turkey-based meal.

POP 300 White Blend- Oakville AVA- CA

You probably don’t think ‘white blend’ when you think of Oakville. However, there are meteorological features of Oakville, namely the large diurnal shifts and consistent fog, that can yield success for rich, viscous white wines. POP 300 is a proprietary blend of Chardonnay and white Rhone varieties aged in a combination of stainless steel and French oak. The nose offers aromas of lemongrass and other herbs, hints of oak and vanilla, and a medley of tart orchard fruit. The palate is medium-plus-bodied with restrained acidity with comparatively richer flavors of ripe apple, pineapple, and vanilla cut with fresh herbs and hints of citrus. This is a peculiar wine that could go with a medley of richer seafood dishes or as a substitute for richer styles of chardonnay with bold lobster dishes.

Terre Rouge Tete-a-Tete- Sierra Foothills AVA-CA

While there are pioneering figures in California viticulture that are familiar to many wine enthusiasts (Robert Mondavi, Chuck Wagner, Merry Edwards, etc.), there are contributors that fly under the radar. Among these are the members of the ‘Rhone Rangers’, winemakers and viticulturists who were responsible for cultivating and propagating Rhone varieties (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, etc.) across California. Bill Easton participated by bringing them to the Sierra Foothills and making eccentric blends and varietal bottlings. The Tete-a-Tete label is bottled under the Domaine de la Terre Rouge line, and focuses on an assemblage (blend) of pre-fermented base wines that are then aged in barrel for extensive periods of time. This wine resembles a well-aged Cotes du Rhone Village or comparable appellation more than a California GSM. The wine pours a ruby color with garnet hues and slight bricking. The nose offers aromas of blue fruit, game, and underbrush. The palate offers pure boysenberry and blueberry accented by a plethora of spicy, savory flavors that make it incredibly complex for the price point. Though this has the heft to pair with heavy red meats, pairing with rich, creamy cheeses or dry-rubbed BBQ would be just as successful.

Arra Vineyards ‘Accountant’s Blend’- Stellenbosch WO- SA

It has been FAR too long since we have featured a South African wine on the wine club; particularly one that is not Pinotage. While the oft-maligned grape is historically the most significant in South African viticulture, it is important to note that most of the quality red wines from South African revolve around Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. This is not just because these grapes are universally popular, but because examples from SA offer characteristics not found anywhere else in the world due to the unique climate and meteorological characteristics of SA (Namely the ‘Cape Doctor’). This blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, and Viognier is an excellent example, offering aromas of plum, baking spice, fruit cake, and cherry. The palate is considerably more savory, offering varietal notes of olive and peppered meat while still carrying rich cherry and well-integrated tannins. This is unequivocally a ribeye wine.

Time Posted: Feb 25, 2022 at 1:01 PM Permalink to March Wine Club 2022 Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
February 3, 2022 | Brian McGoldrick

February Club 2022: Bouquets Abound!

 

Gold Club Wines:

Vignobles Vella 'Prestige 52' Chardonnay- IGP Pays D'Oc- France

Chardonnay is often put on a dichotomy between New World and Old World with little room in between. New World renditions are generally associated with increased usage of new oak and malolactic fermentation resulting in ripe wines, while Old World versions are generally associated with high acid, less fruit, and less oak and ‘malo’. However, it’s important to remember that many of these aspects are influenced more by the winemaker than where the wine is from; take the Vignobles Vella for example. This wine hailing from Languedoc (Southern France) pours a medium yellow with gold hues, offering aromas of banana peel, butter, tea, and some sweet baking spice. The palate is medium bodied with flavors of pineapple and eucalyptus candy, making for an excellent pairing with richer seafood or chicken kiev. 

Domaine Skouras 'Zoe' White Blend- IGP Pelopennese- Greece

When you think of Greek wine, what comes to mind? For many, its exclusively sweet wines, or maybe the eternally odd, but loveable, Retsina. However, there are a collection of delicious indigenous varieties that are starting to make a more consistent appearance in the US market. The ‘Zoe’ line from Domaine Skouras is designed with accessibility in mind, with wines that are made in an unadulterated style that emphasizes regional and varietal character. The ‘Zoe’ white blend is 60% Roditis and 40% Moscofilero. It does not see any oak, VERY little skin contact, and slight lees aging. This wine pours a very pale straw (almost water-like) and offers delicate aromas of flowers, musk, honey, and restrained orchard fruit. The palate offers zippy acidity, sweet citrus fruits, and fresh herbs. This wine screams for a salad with soft cheeses and fruit.

Claude Vialade Carignan- IGP Cote Catalanes- France

As we discussed in November, Carignan is an impressively difficult grape to cultivate and vinify into acceptable varietal wine. It has a history as turbulent as any other variety and is still recovering in the eyes of the consumers. Thankfully, there are producers dedicated to exploring the potential of this variety. This wine is sourced from 50-year-old vines and sees no oak. The nose offers a complex blend of dried herbs and tart blue/black fruit. The palate enters sweet, but quickly reveals the quintessential tannins of Carignan mixed in with macerated black fruits. Though not quite weighty enough for rich red meats, this wine would go beautifully with pork tenderloin served with caramelized brussels sprouts.

Domaine Pelaquie Cotes du Rhone- Cotes du Rhone AOC- France

There is no such thing as too much Cotes du Rhone in a wine bar. As such, we are bringing in yet another delicious rendition from the region that keeps on giving. This 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah is as traditional as traditional gets for CDR; with no oak and grapes harvested at their ripest for a wine that showcases purity of fruit. The nose offers aromas of garrigue, chocolate, and red fruits. This continues through the palate while offering well-integrated tannins and a characteristic richness. Pair this with your next lamb-based meal or a heart Bolognese.

Platinum Wines:

Ganeta Txakoli- Getariako Txakolina DO- Spain

You have likely heard the staff throw around the term “porch-pounder” with reckless abandon. While it’s true that this title is completely subjective (if you can pound Amarone, more power to you) few wines embrace the notion of “porch-pounder” than Txakolina. Generally made from Hondarrabi Zuri, Txakolina (or Txakoli) is an appellation in the Basque County famous for wines made in a fresh style that emphasizes high acidity, a slight effervescence, and tart citrus and orchard fruit flavors.  Ganeta’s rendition embraces all these characteristics and more, making it an ideal standalone white or a pairing for fish tacos.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco- Etna Bianco DOC- Italy

If you all remember, we featured a delectable red from this producer a couple months ago. While Etna Rosso is arguably the most well known of the broad appellations produced on the eponymous volcano, there are also delicious white wines abound.  The Etna Bianco from Terre Nere, much like the Etna Rosso, personifies the regions to a ‘T’.  This blend of Carricante, Cataratto, Grecanico, and Minnella is sourced from vines ranging from 5 to 80 years and is made in a way to emphasize the impressive freshness of the style.  The nose offers fresh primary aromas of citrus and tart tropical fruits with hints of salinity and minerality. The palate has zippy acidity with juicy Meyer lemon and quince accented again with salinity. The freshness of this wine demands crudo or that it be respected as an aperitif. 

Jigar Zinfandel- Dry Creek Valley AVA- California

There a reason the biggest names in California Zinfandel call the Dry Creek Valley their home; it’s a land renowned for over 100 years of the best Zin’ in the state. This AVA tucked in North Central Sonoma County combines the quintessential heat of Sonoma with coastal influence from Lake Sonoma to create rich Zin’s with profiles balanced between opulent and savory. Jigar’s 2017 release sees 10 months in 25% new French Oak, which adds an additional degree of richness to what already a monster of a wine. The nose offers red and black fruit with additional aromas of humidor and sweet baking spice. The mouthfeel is luscious, with well-integrated oak tannins enveloping flavors of blueberry and sweet raspberry. The richness of this wine and its tightrope between ripe and smoky makes it an ideal candidate for BBQ.

Bootleg Wine Works ‘The Prequel’- Sonoma County AVA- California

What could possibly outclass a Zinfandel in terms of weight and richness? Well, it takes the combination of Syrah, Petite Sirah, and a rich viticultural pedigree. Though relatively young, Bootleg Wine Works has featured the talents of multiple winemakers with history at major CA producers such as Hall, Clos du Val, and many others. The Prequel sources fruit from all over Sonoma County and is made in a quintessentially California style. This impenetrably purple wine offers aromas of black pepper, tar, blueberry, and crème de cassis. The palate offers rich oak-driven tannins with full-length flavors of blue and black fruits cut with rich vanilla, sweet tobacco, and baking spice. There is no hunk of red meat too rich for this wine.

Time Posted: Feb 3, 2022 at 5:07 PM Permalink to February Club 2022: Bouquets Abound! Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
January 5, 2022 | Brian McGoldrick

January 2022 Wine Club: A Notedly Dry January

Gold Wines: 

Toscolo Vernaccia di San Gimignano – Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG- IT

Red wine makes up the vast majority of production in Tuscany, with white wine (dry or sweet) making up a tiny fraction. Furthermore, many white varieties grown in Tuscany have a reputation for being inexpensive, middling quality grapes such as Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia.  However, there is one Tuscan appellation producing white wines that holds a significant place in both Tuscany and Italy at large. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a dry white wine made of Vernaccia that holds the distinction of being the very first DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wine in Italy and the only DOCG dedicated to white wine in Tuscany. More than a historically interesting wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is simply an interesting wine in the context of Tuscany. For such a warm growing region, Toscolo’s rendition is strikingly cool climate in nature. The nose offers pleasantly green notes of fresh lemongrass and citrus and the palate offers zippy acidity supplementing gentle tart citrus and stonefruit cut by delicious minerality.

Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’ Blanc- Saumur AOC- FR

For many, knowledge of white wine from the Loire Valley stops at Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. Just as much love should go the remaining standouts, particularly dry Chenin Blanc from Saumur.  Even entry-level examples such as this offer delicious complexity and food-pairing versatility. This is a minimalist approach using multiple soil types, no oak, and noted sur lie (on lees) aging. The nose offers peach, beeswax, lemongrass, and slight salinity. The palate offers bright acidity with a light, but creamy texture supporting ripe orchard and stone fruits.

Chateau de Caraguilhes ‘Cochon Volant’ Rouge- Corbieres AOC- FR

If you have been a customer of Steve’s for some time, you have likely heard one of us claim that Languedoc is the “value region to end all value regions”. There are more reasons for this that can be listed, but know that if you enjoy Bordeaux and Rhone variety-based wines at fantastic price, the Languedoc as a whole is your region; particularly the Corbieres and Minervois AOC’s.  Chateau de Caraguilhes has been making wines in the Corbieres since the late 50’s, and the Cochon Volant series is their entry-level take on a Corbieres red. This blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah offers aromas of red and black fruits cut with earth and herbs de Provence. The palate offers some grip, restratined acidity and bright, spicy red fruit flavors.

Castelet de Canon Leveque ‘Gros Rouge Qui Tache’- Herault IGP- FR

Alright, what does gros rouge qui tache mean? Literally: Big Red That Stains- intrigued yet? This roughly half-half blend of Alicante Bouschet and Syrah from Languedoc delivers exactly that. Though Syrah is certainly big and inky on its own, it cannot hold a candle to Alicante Bouschet, which is one of the few vitis vinifera grapes with red flesh (also known as a teinturier). These two together result in an impossibly dark and inky wine with some balance to it! The nose is fairly savory, with black pepper and bramble-laden black fruits. The palate offers surprisingly restrained tannin, which allows for delicious cherry, plum, and blackberry to shine.

Platinum Club Wines:

Alexana Pinot Gris- Willamette Valley AVA-OR

Though Oregon is currently more well-known for Chardonnay when it comes to white wine, Pinot Gris used to be king and is still one of the best things that Oregon has to offer. For an area so well known for its pseudo-Burgundian characteristics, it only makes sense that the Pinot Gris would be delicious. Alexana’s example is notedly decadent, using a substantial amount of both neutral and new French oak in addition to 4 months of sur lie aging. These add a richness to both the nose and palate, with aromas of granny smith, honey, and herbs supplementing a clean, steely palate with hints of orchard and citrus fruits. This wine is screaming for crab with drawn butter.

Maison Anselmet ‘La Touche’ Blanc- Valle d'Aosta- IT

If anyone had delicious kitchen-sink white blend from Northwestern Italy on their January bingo card, they’re lying. This peculiar blend of Chardonnay, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muller-Thurgau comes from the Valle d'Aosta, a region in Northwestern Italy that, like many successful wine regions, benefits from a rain shadow formed by the neighboring Alps. This results in warm, dry summers, cooler (but still dry) winters and diurnal shifts abound! The Anselmet winemaking tradition in the Valle d’Aosta stretches back to the 16th century, with the family being noted for their innovations in winemaking. This blend offers a complex, but restrained nose with orchard fruits, noted minerality, and a bready character. The palate offers luscious honey crisp apple, thyme, sleek minerality, and high acidity. 

Venus la Universal ‘Dido’ – Montsant DO- SP

Natural wine can be a bit of a contentious topic in the wine industry. On one hand, many champion low-intervention wine in the name of ecological responsibility and to minimize the addition of sulfites. On the other hand, many point out that sulfites help maintain the quality of wine long-term and that wine faults such as ‘brett’ and volatile acidity should not be tolerated.  However, one argument stands above all: is the wine good? In the case of the Dido, the answer is a resounding yes. This blend of Garnacha, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot is a delicious wine with an extremely involved production process. Winemakers Sara Perez and Barbier age this blend in a combination of concrete tanks, neutral oak, and amphora (clay pots). The result is a bold, extracted wine with aromas of earth, bittersweet chocolate, and garrigue-tinged plum. The palate offers balanced tannins and acidity with refreshingly juicy red and blue fruits.

Beckman Vineyards ‘Cuvee la Bec’- Santa Ynez Valley AVA- CA

Bias out of the way, Brian might or might not have fallen in love with this winery while visiting over the holidays. Though the Cuvee la Bec is Beckman’s ‘entry level’ wine, it more than stands tall among their amazing catalogue of Rhone-based wines from the general Santa Barbara region. With crop sourced from one of the warmer regions of Santa Barbara County, this blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Counoise is rich, ripe and crowd-friendly. The nose offers peppercorn, black cherry, chocolate, and hints of vanilla. The tannins are silky and well-integrated, supplementing rich macerated red and blue fruits. This is quintessential steak wine and something to sip on as we enter allegedly cold weather.

 

 

Time Posted: Jan 5, 2022 at 3:07 PM Permalink to January 2022 Wine Club: A Notedly Dry January Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
December 1, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

O Tannin-baum: December 2021 Club Wines!

 

Gold:

Joliesse Pinot Noir- General California Appellation- CA

When creating a list designed to be user-friendly and approachable, it is difficult to make the list “balanced”. While some might thoroughly enjoy a tasting composed of rich, extracted red wines, there are many that want some iota of grace thrown in: Enter Pinot. Both the Gold and Platinum lists this month feature Pinot’s designed to break up the monotony that can sometimes come from a ‘red-only’ tasting. Joliesse’s take is user-friendly, with aromas of cherry sauce, vanilla, and aromatic baking spice. The palate features soft tannins and medium acid with straightforward, but well done, red fruits throughout.

Domaine Riere Cadene ‘Augusta’ Cotes du Roussillon Rouge- Cotes du Roussillon AOC- FR

Food wines are always important, but they are crucial during the holiday season. Though an ambiguous term, ‘food-friendly’ wines are usually termed as such due to tannin and acid playing an elevated role in the flavor profile of the wine. This typically allows the wine to enhance certain characteristics of certain foods and vice-versa. This term can also be used in somewhat of a derogatory sense, for wines that need food to hide flaws. You will find all the prior and none of the latter here with the ‘Augusta’.  This Rhone blend from the Roussillon is vibrant, with aromas of dried herbs de Provence, and tart red berries. The palate is medium bodied, with drying tannin and mouth-watering acidity, with Black cherry and tart plum accented by black pepper and a subtle earthiness.

Terra D’Oro Zinfandel- Amador County AVA- CA

Perhaps no other variety in the New World sparks discussion about the effect of ‘terroir’ quite like Zinfandel. Ask anyone, and you will have differing opinions on which regions makes the best; from Dry Creek (my personal favorite) to Lodi to Mendocino and back. However, true Zin lovers know that Amador County makes some of the most unique and delicious examples in the state. Terra D’Oro (Literally Land of Gold) embraces all the savory accents the Amador terroir can offer to Zin.  This rich, ruby-hued wine gives off aromas of macerated raspberry, cigar wrapper, and an intense sunbaked earthiness.  The palate offers medium, spicy tannins and low acidity. The rich red fruits from the nose carry through with hints of dark chocolate, bramble, and sweet baking spice.

Peirano ‘Sea Enchantress’-Lodi AVA- CA

It wouldn’t be December at Steve’s Wine Bar without a rich, extracted ‘kitchen-sink’ blend. It has been quite some time since we featured Peirano at the bar, so we are happy to bring them back in via the ‘Sea Enchantress’. This eclectic blend of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, and Syrah pours a rich purple color with blue and black hues. The nose offers sweet blueberry, pipe tobacco, tar, and cassis. The palate features RIPE blue and black fruits with hints of dark chocolate and anise.

 

Platinum

EIEIO ‘Swine Wine’ Pinot Noir- Willamette Valley AVA- OR

Never has the name of a wine been so on theme for Steve’s (ask your waiter for more on that); and it also turns out it’s good! The knockout Willamette Valley PN’s keep coming for Steve’s, with this month’s edition coming from EIEIO. This EXTREMELY small-production winery is among the most cultish and well-respected among Burgundy and Pinot hounds. Though this is their ‘entry-level’ wine, it still shows off what makes Oregon Pinot Noir unique. The wine pours a pale ruby color and offers aromas of potting soil, rhubarb, and bing cherry. The palate offers slight woody tannin and quaffable acidity enveloping bright red fruits, aromatic potpourri, and slight boysenberry notes.

G.D Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba- Dolcetto d’Alba DOC- IT

Nestled within the hubbub of Barbera and Nebbiolo, there is Dolcetto; reliably being one of Piedmonts hidden treasures. Combining the structure of Nebbiolo-based wines with readily available fruits has always been the calling card, and G.D Vajra’s example follows this faithfully while introducing some of their ingenuity. This completely unoaked rendition offers bright aromas of red and blue berries, fresh herbs, and star anise. The palate offers medium, drying tannin, medium-high acidity and a plethora of mulberry and plum.

Hewitson ‘Ned & Henry’ Shiraz- Barossa Valley-AUS

We cannot have a big red month without Australia’s primary (wine) contribution to the world; beautiful, ripe, powerful Shiraz. While Shiraz is susceptible to being flabby and hot, Hewitson’s ‘Ned & Henry’ is a masterclass in balance. It offers aromas of plum, licorice, toffee, black pepper, and grilled meat. The palate is full bodied, with well-integrated tannins and restrained acidity supporting a plush, luxurious combination of sweet black and blue fruits.

Pleinair* Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Galerie Winery, Napa AVA, CA

Putting a Napa Cab on the list is not quite the slam dunk a lot of people make it out to be. Napa Valley is such a saturated area in terms of Cabernet production, that there’s a lot of very expensive wines with varying levels of quality. Knowing where to start can be difficult. Thankfully, that’s what you have your friendly neighborhood wine bar for!  Galerie wines are portraits of place, showcasing the dramatically different features of Northern California’s most prized winegrowing appellations. Napa Valley is well known for its abundant sunshine and rich, fruit-forward wines. Knights Valley at the base of Mt. St. Helena to the north has even cooler temperatures, and volcanic soils that produce slower-ripening fruit with distinctive minerality. Spring Mountain is perched high on the steeply terraced slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains along the western edge of Napa Valley, where marine layer influence brings cooler days and warmer nights than on the valley floor. The name refers to the French painters' method of painting outdoors (en plein air), which developed around the same time as Napa's first European-style vineyards in the 1800s. Fruit from vineyards with diverse soil types brings complexity and depth to the finished wine, which shows rich black fruit, spice and floral notes with a firm tannin structure and balanced acidity.

*-Baby Big Dog, you may take one of these as part of your club and one of the other non-Big-Dog wines.

Time Posted: Dec 1, 2021 at 11:05 AM Permalink to O Tannin-baum: December 2021 Club Wines! Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
November 2, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

November Club Wines 2021: Turkey and Tannins

Gold Wines 

Weingut Martinshof 2020 Weisser Landwein 'Zum Martin Sepp'- Weinland Osterreich- Austria

When you’re starting out the day of Thanksgiving, there is a hilarious amount of preparation to do; mostly involving food. At some point, you might want something to sip on, but not something that will put you out of commission.  Crisp, refreshing Gruner Veltliner, particularly THIS Gruner, is an excellent candidate.  This is a landwein (country wine) from the Osterriech, which encompasses three of the four Austrian quality wine regions.  Despite its “lower” standing, this has all the fun varietal notes you expect from Gruner, starting with a pale straw color with pale yellow hues.  The nose offers lively notes of citrus, green apple, white pepper, and snow pea.  The palate features a light body, high acidity, and a little bit of leftover SO2.  Notes of lime and peppercorn bounce off the palate, making this a crisp wine to enjoy while preparing for the big feast.                                                                        

Latido ‘Latido de Sara’ 2019 Garnacha Blanca- Navarra DO- Spain

You’ve had Grenache Noir (Or just Grenache). You have probably Grenache Blanc in a blend, you might have even had a variety-labeled Grenache Blanc, but have you had Grenache Blanc (Garnacha Blanca in this case) from its original home? It’s true; even though France (particularly the Languedoc and Rhone) accounts for most Grenache Blanc plantings now, it is a Spanish variety (or clone if you prefer to look at it that way).  Like it’s red counterpart, Garnacha Blanca thrives in continental wine climates, like Navarra, and tends to ripen with plenty of sugar; which leads to moderate-plus to high levels of alcohol.  In this case, we are dealing with a “light” version, but one that delivers all the same.  The wine pours a light yellow, and offers aromas of citrus, pear, and tart stone fruit.  The palate displays a light + body, with high acidity and a slightly creamy texture.  Lemon, peach, and bread-y notes dominate the palate.  Try this with creamy cheeses and bright salads to try out contrasting and complementing pairings respectively.    

Tandem Wines 2017 ‘Ars in Vitro’- Navarra DO- Spain

Like Rioja, Navarra’s climate supports delicious, food-friendly versions of Tempranillo and other red varieties.  Though we generally think Tempranillo as a wine that reacts favorably to lots of oak and time in bottle, you can also find fresher, quaffable versions.  The ‘Ars in Vitro’ is an excellent example of that, displaying a medium ruby color with some garnet hues.  Aromas of strawberry, red pepper, and cinnamon compose the aromatic profile, with the 10% of Merlot offering some tart plum and floral notes.  The palate displays a medium body, with light tannins, and medium + acidity. The bright ripe strawberry on the nose dominates the palate while being supported by pleasantly green notes of black peppercorn.  Try this as a Turkey wine alternative or with some roasted ham. 

Domaine La Manarine 2019 ‘Le Carignan’- IGP Vaucluse- France

Carignan, like many varieties, sees most of its action as a blending variety.  Whether it’s in the Southern Rhone under Carignan, in an old vine field blend in Lodi under Carignane, or in Rioja under Mazuelo, Carignan is a true 6th man in the world of wine.  However, true to the analogy, Carignan has had issues standing on its own as a varietal wine.  It generally displays high yields, intense tannins, and abundant phenolic compounds, which makes it tricky to work with.  There are ways around this such as carbonic maceration, but that brings up its own issues regarding complexity and quality.  Undaunted, the winemakers at Domaine La Manarine, an amazing winery located in the Southern Rhone Valley, have come through with an excellent example.  This wine pours an intense ruby color with purple hues.  The nose offers red and blue fruit, black pepper, and cured meat.  The palate is full bodied with medium + tannin and medium acidity.  The palate is full of ripe, opulent fruits accented with intense savory baking spices.  This is a quintessential food wine and should be paired with the richest meats you have the table.

Platinum Wines

Villa Creek 2019 ‘Cherry House’ White- Paso Robles AVA- California

This is the first of two wines we will be featuring from the Cherry House line.  Though we generally try to avoid featuring two wines from the same producer on the same list, sometimes a producer just fits the theme so well that we cannot help ourselves.  The Cherry House white is modeled after Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc which is, albeit less popular, modeled after the same model of richness laid out by their red counterparts.  This wine is a 50/50 blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc, with the Clairette going through 100% malolactic fermentation and time in 10% new French Oak and the Grenache Blanc through partial malolactic fermentation and time in neutral oak.  The result is an opulent, but balanced delight.  The wine pours a medium gold color.  The nose offers baked apple, Bosc pear, and spicy and sweet oak-derived notes.  The palate features a medium – body, and medium acidity.  Big ripe pear and other orchard fruits explode onto the palate with a balanced richness brought on by the oak.  If you are feeling white but need something to stand up to the richer fare on the Thanksgiving table, this is the choice. 

Phillipe et Arnaud Dubreuil 2018 Hautes-Cotes de Beaune- Hautes-Cotes de Beaune (Village)- France

I am generally apprehensive about bringing Burgundy (white, red, or anything in between) into the bar.  It can be a difficult region to understand, and great examples across the various appellations can often be prohibitively expensive.  However, it’s a treat when we can expose everyone to the truly great wine regions of the world without annihilating their wallet, and I am happy to report that this wine does just that.  As 2018 was an uncharacteristically warm year across Burgundy, the wines are showing incredibly out of the bottle and can be enjoyed as soon as it’s in the glass.   The Dubreuil Hautes-Cotes de Beaune comes a village within a larger region (Cotes de Beaune) more well known for it’s Chardonnay, but this is quintessential Burgundy Pinot Noir.  The wine pours a pale ruby color, and offers aromas of black tea, bing cherry, star anise, and hints of cola.  The palate is medium - bodied, with silky tannins and medium + acidity. The bright red fruits continue to the palate and get riper and riper as the wine finishes. This is as “turkey wine” as wine gets, so stock up!

Martin Woods 2018 Havlin Vineyard Pinot Noir- Van Duzer Corridor AVA- Oregon *Big Dog*

As Pinot Noir is generally considered to be the apex of “turkey wine”, it seemed only fitting that our marquee wine for the club be a special Pinot.  Martin Woods is Willamette Valley producer that specializes in single vineyard Pinot Noir in addition to limited bottlings of varieties that are not commonly planted in Oregon (Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Gruner Veltliner, etc.).  The Havlin Vineyard is located towards in the Van Duzer Corridor AVA (established in 2019) and is among the latest ripening vineyards that Martin Woods sources from.  This provides stress on the vines, which leads to structure-driven cool climate PN.  This wine pours a medium ruby color, and offers aromas of cherry, boysenberry, and rhubarb accented by fragrant potpourri notes.  The palate displays a medium body with medium acidity and gorgeously seamless tannin.  The fruit and spice notes on the nose continue to the palate and develop as the wine aerates, which makes for an unequivocally exquisite-feeling wine.  This wine will elevate anything on the table and is a can’t-miss bottle. 

Villa Creek 2019 ‘Cherry House’ Red- Paso Robles AVA-CA

To round out our main list, we return to Cherry House, who happens to have an excellent red modeled in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape style.  This is a blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvèdre that sees time in neutral oak, opting to let the fruit shine.  This wine pours a rich ruby color with purple hues.  The nose features dark chocolate, rich red fruits, savory baking spice, and slightly smoky notes. The palate is full-bodied, with medium + tannins and lower acidity.  Rich, ripe red fruits are accented by star anise and floral notes, making this an excellent pairing for the heaviest Thanksgiving fare.

*BONUS WINE*

Cantina di Casteggio Sangue di Giuda- Sangue di Giuda DOC- IT

The bonus wine tradition returns!  We all need something sweet and fun to enjoy with desserts and to appeal to those in the family that prefer their wine on the sweeter side.  For those purposes, we brought in an excellent, off the beaten path wine from Lombardy.  Sangue di Giuda, also known literally as "Blood of Judas" or more simply Blood Wine, is a DOC and wine sourced from the Oltrepo Pavese region in Pavia, which is one of the largest production regions of domestically consumed Italian wines.  This wine is most often a blend of Barbera, Croatina, and Rara Uva, and goes through the partial fermentation method used in the production of other sweet wines such as Moscato d’Asti.  The result is an easy-drinking, semi-sweet, aromatic frizzante red that can be paired with dessert or enjoyed with an aperitif.  This wine pours a ruby color with purple hues and offers aromas of cherry, plum, bubblegum, and banana.  The bubbles on the palate are soft and fun, with juicy red fruits and licorice.  This is the perfect end to a large wine tasting OR a large meal. 

Time Posted: Nov 2, 2021 at 1:39 PM Permalink to November Club Wines 2021: Turkey and Tannins Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
October 13, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

Il Borro Tasting!

When someone mentions Tuscany in the context of wine, many things may come to mind.   Maybe it’s the blue chip wines of Maremma and Bolgheri.  Maybe it’s the sunbaked terroir hosting countless chateaus specializing in made from Sangiovese to Vernaccia to any number of Bordeaux varieties.  What might be most interesting however, is the sheer longevity and history associated with many of the operations.  We are happy to be able to showcase one of these truly historic estates:  Il Borro.

Located in the larger Valdarno de Sopra region near the city of Arezzo, Il Borro specializes in complex, but rich renditions on the classic ‘super tuscan’ formula.  Additionally, they are responsible for some of the most elegant Tuscan white wines the staff has ever tasted; most notably the ‘Lamelle’, which you might remember as a strikingly Chablis-esque, but approachable, Chardonnay. 

We will be hosting Darrell Gibson, Mid West Il Borro Brand Manager as our presenter.  Darrell wowed us Steve and I with these wines months ago, and I’m glad we are able to share them with you on 10/24!

Time Posted: Oct 13, 2021 at 9:07 AM Permalink to Il Borro Tasting! Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
September 30, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

October 2021 Club Wines

Decadence All Around!

Gold Wines:

Visintini 2019 Friulano- Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Friuli Colli Orientali-IT

Do you like Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, or Muscadet?  Do you wish the wines were more bone-dry and had some more weight flavor and body-wise to them?  Look no further than Friulano from Fiuli Colli Orientali.  This DOC is located in Friuli-Venezia Giula, a large northeastern Italian growing region that borders the Veneto region, Slovenia, and Austria.  This region generally displays a mild Mediterranean climate with a cool influence from the Alps to the north.  This screams for both structured white wines and lighter styles of red wine.  The styles displayed here are varied, from bone-dry whites to plush Bordeaux-based wines (see the Bortoluzzi Cabernet Franc) to the rich dessert wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG (Which gets a shoutout in the Sopranos!).  So, what can you expect from the Vinsintini?  The wine displays a light yellow/ pale straw color.  The nose is complex and savory, with almond, apple skin, and white flowers.  The palate displays zippy acidity, subtle stone and citrus fruits with herbaceous and almond accents.  While you might think to pair this with lean white meat or delicate fish, try pairing this wine’s high acid with cured meats and salty pork!

Nine Hats 2018 Pinot Gris- Columbia Valley AVA, Washington- US

Even when thinking explicitly of popular white varieties in Washington, Pinot Gris probably does not come immediately to mind.  To be fair, the typical portrayal of Washington doesn’t display the typical climate associated with Pinot Gris.  However, the rainy, green pastures on the West of the Cascades are a far cry from the generally sunny and dry valleys on the East (Where virtually all of the wine production for the state occurs).  In fact, comparisons could be drawn between Columbia Valley and what is likely the premier non-Italian Pinot Gris-growing region, Alsace.  Though the Nine Hats displays some fundamental differences from Alsatian Pinot Gris, it does display the potential for Pinot Gris going forward in Columbia Valley.  This wine pours a light straw to light yellow with some light white hues.  The nose offers an intense combination of flowers, wet stone, and tart orchard fruits.  The palate is less intense, with soft honey crisp apple and green pear cut with some honey.  If there’s a “light” wine on the list, it’s this one, and would go best with some charcuterie or sashimi.

Quarisa 2016 Mrs. Q Shiraz- McLaren Vale-AUS

Recently, we’ve been bringing in lighter renditions of Australian reds in order to display the versatility of various regions.  It’s time to get back to the rich stuff, if only briefly.  This is a partially-barrel fermented rendition that experiences roughly 18 months in American oak following fermentation. The Mrs. Q Shiraz is a faithful version of the style, pouring a rich purple color with blue and black hues.  The nose is intensely rich, with macerated red and blue fruits, black pepper, and sweet baking spice.  The palate is heavy with much of the same fruit characteristics being enveloped by rich sweet tannins and hints of chocolate and coffee. 

Retro 2020 Primitivo di Manduria- Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Puglia- IT

Although they are genetically identical, Primitivo is generally associated with lighter, more structured wines while Zinfandel is known for the being the posterchild for hedonistically rich wines.  In this case, we have an instance of mistaken identity, as the Retro is a decidedly new world rendition of Primitivo.  This wine pours a medium ruby color with purple hues, offering aromas of raspberry, bramble, vanilla, and pipe tobacco.  The palate is rich, with soft tannins enveloping soft, juicy red fruits and sweet baking spice. 

Platinum Wines:

Domaine Chavet 2020 Pouilly Fume- Pouilly-Fume AOC, Loire- FR

We all know about Sancerre, which is arguably the most famous region in the Upper Loire and the Loire Valley itself.  For the most part, Sancerre is going to be the primary representative for the Loire Valley in the US market.   However, it isn’t the only phenomenal Sauvignon Blanc-based wine from Loire you should be paying attention to: cue Pouilly-Fume.  As Sancerre’s proverbial little sibling, Pouilly-Fume is generally produced in a rounder, softer style.  This provides a great backdrop for certain winemaking techniques that result in a richer, more new world product; such as malolactic fermentation.  Domaine Chavet’s Pouilly-Fume is a great example of how ‘malo’ can benefit Sauvignon Blanc.  This wine pours a pale yellow color, offering aromas of citrus, light stone fruit, and ripe vegetal notes.    The palate is light-plus bodied, with a slightly creamy texture and (comparatively) lower acidity enveloping stone and citrus fruits. 

Owen Roe 2019 ‘Sinister Hand’-Columbia Valley AVA,Washington-US

Though this might be the lightest red on the platinum club, it’s only by comparison.  This is quaffable, but rich take on the classic GSM formula from Southern Rhone.  In this case, a majority of Syrah is blended with Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and multiple white Rhone varieties.  A rich ruby color belies bright aromas of raspberry, vanilla, and black pepper.  The palate is medium-bodied, with medium tannins and medium acidity accenting notes of bright cherry and plum cut with black pepper, grilled meat, and sweet baking spice.  Inquire with your server about the story behind the label!

Podere Grattomacco 2019 Bolgheri Rosso- Bolgheri DOC, Tuscany- IT

A bit of an oddity and a first for SWB, we have a DOC ‘Super Tuscan’!  What is likely one of the most ambiguous terms in wine originated in the 1970’s when high-quality, typically Bordeaux variety-based, wines were not eligible for classification under the Chianti DOC.  This ended up resulting in the creation of the Bolgheri DOC in 1983 and the famed Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) category in 1992.  Both of these appellations/categories were created to allow for these ‘Super Tuscans’ to have a denomination greater than the base vino.  Grattomacco’s rendition is very style-appropriate, being composed of a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Sangiovese.  This wine pours a medium ruby color with garnet hues.  The nose offers fresh herbs, graphite, and tart red fruit.  The palate offers a medium + body, medium dusty tannins, and medium acidity.  The flavor profiles offers ripe red fruits, balsamic reduction, and savory baking spice.

Chronology 2019 Red Wine- General California- US

‘Kitchen Sink’ blends have been an unstoppable New World phenomenon ever since Dave Phinney unveiled the Prisoner in the early 2000’s under the Orin Swift line.  Due to over-saturation, many of these blends are susceptible to manipulation and a complete lack of balance.  The Chronology, conceptualized by famed Burgundy producer and portfolio savant  Jean Charles Boisset, is an excellent example of the potential these types of wines display.  This is a true ‘blend’, with Petite Sirah occupying the majority, followed by Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Malbec, Carignan, Mourvedre, Mission…and Petit Verdot.  Despite the relatively little oak this wine sees, the color is representative of Petite Sirah, with a near impenetrable dark ruby with purple hues.  The nose offers reduced figs, mocha, cherry-berry flavors and blackberry bramble.  The palate is rich, but balanced with soft tannins and surprisingly quaffable acidity.  The fruit is the star of the show here, shining brightly through with cedar box and dark chocolate. 

 

Time Posted: Sep 30, 2021 at 8:54 AM Permalink to October 2021 Club Wines Permalink
Brian McGoldrick
 
September 1, 2021 | Brian McGoldrick

September Wine Club

September Club Wines

"This Is From Where?"

 

Gold Wines

Domaine de Sahari Vin Gris- Beni M’Tir, Meknes-Fes, Morocco

We’re starting this club off with a bang: Moroccan wine.   French colonization was the primary catalyst for Moroccan viticulture, but the country’s independence in the mid-20th century gave way to an influx of influences from other prominent regions. This is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault, but one that more resembles Spanish Garnacha Rosado, in taste, than any prominent rose-producing region in France.  This wine pours a pale pink/ pale copper color, which is indicative of the vin gris style.  The nose offers citrus peel, white flowers, and tart neutral fruit flavors such as cantaloupe.  The palate offers subtle stone and citrus fruit, high acidity, and a surprisingly full body for the style.  This is a quintessential grilled veggie or raw seafood wine. 

Montinore Estate Borealis NV- Willamette Valley AVA- Oregon

When you think of Oregonian white wine, you likely think of Burgundy-adjacent Chardonnay or richer styles of Pinot Gris.  However, much like some other cool climate growing areas, off-dry whites can be an immense success.  The Borealis is a blend of Muller-Thurgau, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Gris.  Don’t be dissuaded by the NV designation; this is done intentionally to yearn different levels of ripeness and intensity from each individual grape.  This is certainly an off-dry wine, but the level of expression from step to step is amazing.  The nose offers a plethora of tropical fruits, lychee, peach, and the slightest hint of petrol.  The palate has a fun, slightly oily texture, showcasing mouthwatering acidity and deliciously ripe fruit.  Pair this with your next Thai meal or anything with a noted level of spice. 

Lulumi Pinot Noir- Pays d’Oc IGP- France

When you think of the Languedoc, you likely think of spicy red blends made from Cinsault, Carignan, and Syrah; but probably not Pinot Noir.  Pinot’s ubiquity is not limited just to Burgundy, as notable plantings can be found virtually anywhere outside of Bordeaux (And that’s just in France).  This version is the epitome of easy-going, with aromas of brambly red fruit, earth, and potpourri.  The palate displays light, spicy tannins, quaffable acidity, and a restrained medley of red berries.  This is incredible versatile in terms of food and could even be the accompaniment to heavy seafood-based fare. 

Pizarras de Otero Mencia- Bierzo D.O.-Spain

Spain might be the poster child for underappreciated, mostly indigenous, varieties.  Chief among the red varieties might be Mencia, which can be compared to other medium-bodied aromatic reds like Pinot Noir and more delicate Cabernet Franc.  Generally, Mencia showcases juicy, tart red and black fruit intermixed with earthy and spicy aromas.  The Pizarras de Otero is very style-appropriate, pouring a medium ruby color and offering aromas bursting with juicy red and black fruits cut with anise.  The palate is medium-bodied with mildly-gripping tannins and balanced acidity, which again accentuates the juicy fruit on the palate.  This is an extremely versatile food wine and could be paired with just about anything. 

 

Platinum Wines

Il Borro ‘Lamelle’- IGT Toscana- Italy

Frankly, I had not had a Tuscan Chardonnay that wowed me until this one; and did it ever wow me.  The Lamelle, completely unoaked, strikes the perfect balance between Chablis-esque structure and focus and the beautiful fruit found in new world examples.  The nose is clean and fragant, with green apple, citrus oil, and a slight flinty character.  The palate shows off mouthwatering acidity cutting through a surprising amount of fruit for this style of Chardonnay.  If you are a California Chardonnay-lover looking for an introduction into the wide, intimidating world of Burgundy, this is an excellent steppingstone. 

Pedernales Viognier Reserve- Texas High Plains AVA- Texas

Viognier, unlike some of the other notable white varieties, can thrive in warm climate growing regions.  Though some of the most noted Viognier-growing regions like Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet suffer from adverse conditions such as the Mistral, they rely on warm summers in order to facilitate optimal ripeness.  Though no one will be mistaking the Pedernales for its Northern Rhone companions, the Pedernales shows off the grape’s potential for richness and affinity for warm climates.  This is made with richness in mind, as some amount of new French oak is used.  The nose offers subtle orchard fruits cut with citrus peel, beeswax, and aromatic floral notes.  The palate is quintessential Viognier, with a creamy mouthfeel and comparatively lower acidity enveloping ripe, spice-accented tropical and orchard fruit. 

Tenuta della Terre Nerre Etna Rosso- Etna Rosso DOC- Sicily

Though not necessarily an unknown wine for the region, Sicily as a wine-producing region remains a fairly large enigma in the US market.  One of the gems of Sicily, well-known among those in the profession, is Etna; a small viticultural region (On an active volcano!!!) producing incredible red and white wines.  The reds are made primarily from a grape called Nerello Mascalese; whose closest analog would be an incredibly savory Pinot Noir.  This wine pours a medium red color with some garnet hues.  The nose offers aromas of tart red berries, dried herbs, and a slight hint of ash (variety-typical for Nerello Mascalese).  The palate is medium-bodied, with woody tannins and zippy acidity accenting a mixture of fresh and dried red fruits.  High-acid red wine pairs with equally acidic foods, so a tomato-based dish would be excellent with this. 

Stella Bella Shiraz- Margaret River- Australia

Shiraz from Australia?  What’s weird about that?  When we think about the premier Syrah-producing regions in Australia, we likely think of South Australian regions like Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, or maybe some of the areas in the Limestone Coast.  We probably don’t think of a region that is most well known for Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Margaret River is the westernmost wine growing region in Australia, and as such experiences the most maritime influence of any region.  This is a characteristic that makes for unique expressions of Australian Shiraz, which the Stella Bella displays extremely well.  This wine looks the part, with a deep ruby color with purple hues.  The nose offers plum, red currant, black cherry, licorice, and hints of oak via baking spice and cedar box.  The palate is medium-bodied, with light-plus acid and medium tannin.  The fruit profile is fresher than you would expect from Australian Shiraz, with bright plum, cherry, and orange peel notes.  The finish is toasty and lengthy.  This is a much more quaffable style of Shiraz for Australia and dispels the notion that Australian is only known for massive, alcoholic expressions of various red varieties. 

Time Posted: Sep 1, 2021 at 8:58 AM Permalink to September Wine Club Permalink