España Verde, or Green Spain, is the lush portion in the north of the country that is teeming with forests, pastures, verdant landscapes, and vegetation…believe it or not, it is often compared to Ireland and Scotland due to its craggy cliffs and foggy rolling hills. Just off the coast of the Atlantic, this is the one area of Spain with abundant rainfall; much of the rest of Spain experiences hot, dry summers and, in some cases, is semi-arid. Rías Baixas, the heart of where Albariño is made, is a cool-weather region due to its proximity to the coast; despite getting around 60 inches of rain annually (about three times the average rainfall in the rest of the country), there is abundant sunshine, allowing grapes to fully ripen. Albariño, a variety that nearly went extinct in the 20th century, is the signature grape of Rías Baixas. La Val has generous fruits like green apple, pear, pineapple, nectarine, and a touch of sea salt. Of course, it will go well with any type of sea food, but a more unconventional pairing will be the salty, tangy feta fries from Gyro 360.
The Bookwalter name is synonymous with excellent Washington wines. With nine generations of family farming, Jerry Bookwalter pivoted to grape-growing in the 1970s and 80s, and son John, who grew up in vineyards, worked at E&J Gallo and Coors before returning to eastern Washington to reinvent the J. Bookwalter brand in the late 1990s. With name play in mind, each wine focuses on a realm of literature, like ‘Readers’ but also ‘Conflict,’ ‘Protagonist,’ and ‘Suspense.’ The family’s philanthropical priority is reading and literacy, allocating a portion of their revenue to numerous local literacy and children’s charities and giving their time to community groups. With orange blossom and citrus aromatics, ‘Readers’ captivates with Meyer lemon, golden apple, white peach, a tinge of vanilla, and white tea. Plot twist: this bright white avoided malolactic fermentation, meaning it is not intentionally buttery or creamy like some Chards can be. The shrimp tacos from La Fondita will be a perfect resolution to this J. Bookwalter Chardonnay.
Croatia is home to Zinfandel, called Crljenak Kaštelanski, along with its descendent variety, Plavac Mali. It was iconic American winemaker Mike Grgich of Chateau Montelena fame who learned that the wine he grew up drinking on the Dalmatian Coast was indeed Plavac Mali, and he could sense its similarity to Zinfandel. He encouraged researchers at UC Davis to perform a genetic analysis on the two grapes, thereby uncovering the family link (Plavac Mali’s other parent is Dobričić , an indigenous Croatian grape). Grown extensively in Dalmatia, Plavac Mali is usually a bold, juicy, spicy grape; the ‘Bilo Idro,’ on the other hand, is light and approachable, a red that could certainly be chilled. When imbibing, you may perceive red cherry, redcurrant, blueberry, white pepper, and a subtle earthiness. Bilo Idro, by the way, is the name of Zlatan Otok’s gorgeous marina-side restaurant and wine bar, located in the little fishing village on the island of Hvar. The winemaker mentions a plethora of foods would work with this wine – burgers, pizza, chicken – but I suggest the unconventional route by going with pork egg rolls like you can get from The Pickled Carrot food truck.
There are four levels of prestige when it comes to Beaujolais wines: Nouveau, which are known for fresh and fruity characteristics; Beaujolais; Beaujolais-Villages; and Cru Beaujolais, like this offering from Domaine de Roche-Guillon. Even the 10 Crus are informally ranked based on reputation, with Moulin à Vent being associated with age-worthy reds. Grown on blue granite soils, which impart a mineral undertone, the wine in your glass is a series of contradictions. While fruit-forward, this Beaujolais is also powerfully structured and complex. Comprised of 50% whole cluster and 50% destemmed grapes, this wine was fermented and matured in both stainless steel and neutral oak. Lavender, redcurrant, cherry, blackcurrant, strawberry, and subtle spice linger on the palate. While this wine can be cellared, it can certainly be enjoyed now. Savor it alongside some smoked turkey from Juicy Pig Barbecue.
Della Scala Montepulciano – Abruzzo, IT (Gold)
The Etruscans lived in central Italy during the Bronze and Iron Ages. While they left very few written records, remaining a civilization we still know very little about, we do have proof that they were greatly influenced by wine. They drank it in religious ceremonies, believing wine to have mystical properties and that it could bring the dead back to life. Warriors also imbibed before battles because they believed it was a source of power. Etruscans were innovators, being the first to blend different grapes together; they also were pioneers in aging wine in barrels. Their contributions date back to the 6th century BC, making cementing Abruzzo’s importance for wine in Italy. Apparently even Hannibal, who crossed the Alps in the 2nd century BC, rewarded his troops with Abruzzo wine after the long trek. Needless to say, Abruzzo is well-known for viticulture and viniculture. And the star grape there is Montepulciano, the easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing variety that works with many different Italian cuisines. Della Scala’s version is abundant in both fruit and savory traits: cherry, cranberry, plum, and blackberry transform to tobacco and black pepper on the finish. The Garfield Lasagna from Picone would be a delicious accompaniment.
Forbes has called Susana Balbo the best winemaker in Argentina. Her parents were viticulturalists before her, and they balked when she wanted to become a nuclear physicist instead of joining the family business. To please them, she pivoted and decided to obtain a degree in enology in 1981, the first woman to do so in the entire country. Wildly successful, now her own children help her run the business. And although she is nearly 70, she is not ready to pass the baton on to them yet, staying very active in multiple wine brands, including the BenMarco line. BenMarco was created to spotlight the pure expression of each grape variety featured in the bottle. Minimal intervention is prioritized along with sustainable farming. This 100% Cabernet Franc is sourced from Paraje Altamira, a region of Mendoza’s Uco Valley known for chalky, calcareous soils and altitudes of nearly 4,000 feet. The result in the glass is a flavor bomb of fruit and savory notes: strawberry and plum evolve to vegetal bell pepper, dried grass, and balsamic, finishing with a punch of spice. A fun pairing would be Green Zatar’s Bakhtiari Kebabs, which stack chicken, steak, mushrooms, peppers, and onions in one bite.
In the land of countless indigenous grapes, Aglianico (pronounced without the -g) is Italy’s answer to big, bold reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (although you will see these grapes grown for SuperTuscans!). It is from a province many don’t necessarily think of when planning getaways to Italy: Basilicata, which is sandwiched between Puglia, Calabria, and Campania (where the variety also thrives) on the Ionian Sea. The vines are sourced from the slopes of the extinct Vulture volcano, which last erupted about 40,000 years ago. This region one of Italy’s least populated areas and is rife with pristine natural beauty and soils that contain a wealth of minerals, which impart complexity to the grapes grown here. When first taking a sip of the ‘Pipoli,’ you might notice the high acidity, present tannins, and full body first, but its structure is well-balanced by fruity traits of red cherry, plum, and sour black cherry, plus more savory notes of balsamic, spice, vanilla, and espresso. Aglianico begs for mouth-filling pasta, so if you can grab a reservation from Osteria Il Muro, enjoy this wine with a platter of Tagliatelle with a meaty ragu.
Jax is a small-lot brand using grapes in Napa and Somona that was founded by brother and sister team Trent and Kimberly Jackson who fell in love with the art of viticulture after seeing their father produce wine for fun, just for their friends and family. They branched off to create the ‘Y3’ line to showcase balanced, “true to varietal” wines crafted by icon winemaker Kirk Venge, most notably from Calistoga’s Venge Vineyards. In a nod to their family heritage, the Jacksons did a throwback to their grandparents’ ranch, called Yarrayne, by using a cattle brand with the ‘Y3’ symbol on it as their logo. This North Coast Cabernet is unfined and unfiltered, which is not the most usual of practices. Some winemakers believe that in getting a crystal-clear wine, flavor is compromised, so this wine is opaque in the glass; extended aging of 18 months in oak gives it a robust undertone. On the palate, there are layers of primary, secondary, and tertiary notes, including blackberry, blackcurrant, black cherry, cocoa nib, forest floor, spice, and cedar. The next time you see the award-winning Insurgent food truck parked out back, please order whatever meat-focused daily special they have in order to create a perfect pairing.